It's pretty simple. There're nine sort of rules that I sort of discovered after thirty-five years of rock climbing. Most of them are pretty basic. Number one: don't let go, a very sure success method. But really truly often you think about letting go way before your body does. So, hang in there, and you come up with some pretty peculiar solutions.
Number two: hesitation is bad. This is a friction climb up in Tuolumne Meadows in the Yosemite high country. And friction climbing doesn't have any sort of hard positive edges. It's sort of you're climbing on little dimples and nubbins in the rock. The most friction you have is first you put your hand or your foot on the rock. And then from that point on, you're basically falling. So, momentum is good. Don't Stop!
Rule number three: have a plan. This is a climb called The Naked Edge in El Dorado Canyon, outside the Boulder. This climber is on the last pitch of it. He's actually right about where I fell. And there is about one thousand feet of air below him. And all the hard pitches are actually below him. And so often what happens is you're planning so hard for like, "How do I get through the hardest part? How do I get through the hardest part?" And then what happens? You get to the last pitch. It's easy. And you're completely flamed out. Don't do it. You have to plan ahead to get to the top. But you also can't forget that each individual move you have to be able to complete.
第三點：要有計畫。這是位於Boulder市外的黃金峽谷，一個叫做The Naked Edge的攀岩地點。這位攀岩者剩下最後一個支架就要完成了。他其實就在我當初跌落的地方。在他之下是大約一千英尺高的懸崖。而所有高難度的部分都完成了。時常會發生的是，你計畫非常周全，像是「我要如何度過最艱難的部分？我要如何度過最艱難的部分？」然後發生甚麼事情？你到了最後一步。很容易。然而你也完全筋疲力竭。別這樣。你必須事先計畫到攻頂為止。但是同時你也不能忘記每一步你都必須能夠完成。
This is a climb called the Dike Route on Pywjack Dome, up in the Yosemite high country. The interesting thing about this climb is it's not that hard, but if you are the leader on it, at the hardest move, you're looking at about a hundred-foot fall, onto some low angle slabs. So you've got to focus. You know, you don't wanna stop in the middle like Coleridge's Kublai Khan. You've gotta keep going!
這是位於優勝美地高原的Pywjack 穹頂，叫做Dike Route的攀岩地點。有趣的是這攀岩地點沒那麼艱難，但如果你是領隊，最困難的地方是，你要預先盤算好墜落一百英尺到一些小角度的平板上。所以你必須要專心。你知道，你不想半途而廢，像是Coleridge的《忽必烈汗》一樣(註二)。你必須繼續走下去!
Rule number five: know how to rest. It's amazing. The best climbers are the ones that in the most extreme situations can get their bodies into some position, where they can rest, regroup, calm themselves, focus, and keep going.
This is a climb in the Needles, again in California. Fear really sucks, because what it means is you're not focusing on what you're doing. You're focusing on the consequences of failing at what you're doing. Because any given move should require all your concentration and thought processes to execute it effectively.
One of the things in climbing is, most people sort of take it straight on. And they follow the most obvious solution. This is the Devils Tower in Wyoming, which is a columnar basalt formation that most of you probably know from Close Encounters. With this, typically crack climbers would put their hands in and their toes in, and just start climbing. The cracks are too small to get your toes into, so the only way to climb is using your fingertips in the cracks, and using opposing pressure and forcing yourself up.
Rule number eight: strength doesn't always equal success. In the 35 years I've been a climbing guide and taught on indoor walls, some stuff like that, the most important thing I've learned was, guys were always trying to do pull-ups. Beginning guys, it's like, they thrash, they thrash, they get 15 feet up, and they can do about 15 pull-ups, right? And then they just flame out. Women are much more in balance, because they don't have that idea that they're gonna be able to do 100 pull-ups. They think about how to get the weight over their feet, because it's sort of natural. They carry you all day long. So balance is really critical, and keeping your weight on your feet, which is your strongest muscle.
And then of course there is rule number nine. I came up with rule number nine after I actually didn't plan for a fall, and went about forty feet and cracked a rib. Once you get to that point where you know it's gonna happen, you need to start thinking about how you're gonna let go, because that is the critical piece of not getting hurt: how you're going to fall onto the rope, or if you're climbing without a rope, fall to a place where you can actually control the fall. So don't hang on till the bitter end. Thank you very much!
註一：Friction Climb 是徒手攀岩，主要靠摩擦力往上爬，而盡量不使用繩索。
- 「想出、產出、提供」- Come Up With
So, hang in there, and you come up with some pretty peculiar solutions.
- 「筋疲力竭」- Flame Out
And then what happens? You get to the last pitch. It's easy. And you're completely flamed out. Don't do it.
- 「硬撐、堅持不懈、抓緊、等一會」- Hang On
So don't hang on till the bitter end. Thank you very much!