It's pretty simple. There're nine sort of rules that I sort of discovered after thirty-five years of rock climbing. Most of them are pretty basic. Number one: don't let go, a very sure success method. But really truly often you think about letting go way before your body does. So, hang in there, and you come up with some pretty peculiar solutions.
這很簡單。我在三十五年的攀岩經驗中所發現的九種哲理。它們大部分很基本。第一點：不放棄，一個非常明確的成功方法。但實際上通常你在身體挺不住之前就想放棄。所以，撐下去，然後你會想出某些非常特別的解決方式。
Number two: hesitation is bad. This is a friction climb up in Tuolumne Meadows in the Yosemite high country. And friction climbing doesn't have any sort of hard positive edges. It's sort of you're climbing on little dimples and nubbins in the rock. The most friction you have is first you put your hand or your foot on the rock. And then from that point on, you're basically falling. So, momentum is good. Don't Stop!
第二點：猶豫不決是不好的。這是位於優勝美地高地，在Tuolumne草原上的徒手自由攀岩(註一)。而徒手自由攀岩沒有任何一種堅固的施力點。他有點像是你在石縫中的小凹凸處攀爬。當你一開始把你的手或腳放上岩石的時候，就是你擁有的最大摩擦力。然後從那點開始，其實你是在滑落。所以，動量是好的。別停下來!
Rule number three: have a plan. This is a climb called The Naked Edge in El Dorado Canyon, outside the Boulder. This climber is on the last pitch of it. He's actually right about where I fell. And there is about one thousand feet of air below him. And all the hard pitches are actually below him. And so often what happens is you're planning so hard for like, "How do I get through the hardest part? How do I get through the hardest part?" And then what happens? You get to the last pitch. It's easy. And you're completely flamed out. Don't do it. You have to plan ahead to get to the top. But you also can't forget that each individual move you have to be able to complete.
第三點：要有計畫。這是位於Boulder市外的黃金峽谷，一個叫做The Naked Edge的攀岩地點。這位攀岩者剩下最後一個支架就要完成了。他其實就在我當初跌落的地方。在他之下是大約一千英尺高的懸崖。而所有高難度的部分都完成了。時常會發生的是，你計畫非常周全，像是「我要如何度過最艱難的部分？我要如何度過最艱難的部分？」然後發生甚麼事情？你到了最後一步。很容易。然而你也完全筋疲力竭。別這樣。你必須事先計畫到攻頂為止。但是同時你也不能忘記每一步你都必須能夠完成。
This is a climb called the Dike Route on Pywjack Dome, up in the Yosemite high country. The interesting thing about this climb is it's not that hard, but if you are the leader on it, at the hardest move, you're looking at about a hundred-foot fall, onto some low angle slabs. So you've got to focus. You know, you don't wanna stop in the middle like Coleridge's Kublai Khan. You've gotta keep going!
這是位於優勝美地高原的Pywjack 穹頂，叫做Dike Route的攀岩地點。有趣的是這攀岩地點沒那麼艱難，但如果你是領隊，最困難的地方是，你要預先盤算好墜落一百英尺到一些小角度的平板上。所以你必須要專心。你知道，你不想半途而廢，像是Coleridge的《忽必烈汗》一樣(註二)。你必須繼續走下去!
Rule number five: know how to rest. It's amazing. The best climbers are the ones that in the most extreme situations can get their bodies into some position, where they can rest, regroup, calm themselves, focus, and keep going.
第五點：知道如何休息。這是很驚人的。最棒的攀岩者是那些可以在最嚴峻的環境之下，將身體保持某種姿勢，可讓自己休息，重組，冷靜，然後繼續前進。
This is a climb in the Needles, again in California. Fear really sucks, because what it means is you're not focusing on what you're doing. You're focusing on the consequences of failing at what you're doing. Because any given move should require all your concentration and thought processes to execute it effectively.
這是個位於Needles市的攀岩地點，又是在加州。恐懼真的很討厭，因為那意味著你將無法專注於正在做的事情。你會專注於其失敗的結果。因為任何特定的動作應該需要你完全的專注和思考，來有效的執行它。
One of the things in climbing is, most people sort of take it straight on. And they follow the most obvious solution. This is the Devils Tower in Wyoming, which is a columnar basalt formation that most of you probably know from Close Encounters. With this, typically crack climbers would put their hands in and their toes in, and just start climbing. The cracks are too small to get your toes into, so the only way to climb is using your fingertips in the cracks, and using opposing pressure and forcing yourself up.
攀岩中有件事是這樣，大部分的人就直接上。而且他們會走那最明顯的路。這是Wyoming州的魔鬼塔，是個柱狀玄武岩結構，你們也許從《第三類接觸》中知道它。面對這樣的地形，尤其是岩縫攀岩者會把手和腳放進岩縫，就開始攀爬。那些裂縫太小腳趾放不進去，所以唯一攀爬的方式就是把你的手指放在岩縫中，並使用反作用力將自己往上推。
Rule number eight: strength doesn't always equal success. In the 35 years I've been a climbing guide and taught on indoor walls, some stuff like that, the most important thing I've learned was, guys were always trying to do pull-ups. Beginning guys, it's like, they thrash, they thrash, they get 15 feet up, and they can do about 15 pull-ups, right? And then they just flame out. Women are much more in balance, because they don't have that idea that they're gonna be able to do 100 pull-ups. They think about how to get the weight over their feet, because it's sort of natural. They carry you all day long. So balance is really critical, and keeping your weight on your feet, which is your strongest muscle.
第八點：力量不總是等同成功。在這三十五年之間我當攀岩嚮導並在室內岩場任教，差不多就像那樣子，我學到的事情中，最重要的是，男人總是試著做引體向上。初學男士們，他們猛力前進、猛力前進，往上推進十五英尺，而他們可做約十五個引體向上，對吧？然後他們就體力透支了。女士們多會保持平衡，因為她們並不認為她們可以做一百個引體向上。她們思考如何把重量分擔到腳上，因為這就是天生自然的。它們整天支撐著你的身體。所以平衡真的很重要的，讓重量落在你腳上，它是你最強的肌肉。
And then of course there is rule number nine. I came up with rule number nine after I actually didn't plan for a fall, and went about forty feet and cracked a rib. Once you get to that point where you know it's gonna happen, you need to start thinking about how you're gonna let go, because that is the critical piece of not getting hurt: how you're going to fall onto the rope, or if you're climbing without a rope, fall to a place where you can actually control the fall. So don't hang on till the bitter end. Thank you very much!
然後當然有第九點。在我無意中跌落四十英尺，摔斷一根肋骨後，得到了這第九點規則。一旦到了你知道它將會發生之際，你必須開始思考要如何放手，因為那是避免受傷的重要關鍵：你要如何掉到安全索上，或是如果你沒用安全索攀爬，掉到一個你可以真正控制下落的地點。所以不要硬撐到最糟糕的結局。非常感謝你們!
註一：Friction Climb 是徒手攀岩，主要靠摩擦力往上爬，而盡量不使用繩索。
註二：英國詩人Coleridge寫的《忽必烈汗》，卻沒有完成
- 「想出、產出、提供」- Come Up With
So, hang in there, and you come up with some pretty peculiar solutions.
所以，撐下去，然後你會想出某些非常特別的解決方式。 - 「筋疲力竭」- Flame Out
And then what happens? You get to the last pitch. It's easy. And you're completely flamed out. Don't do it.
然後發生甚麼事情？你到了最後一步。很容易。然而你也完全筋疲力竭。別這樣。 - 「硬撐、堅持不懈、抓緊、等一會」- Hang On
So don't hang on till the bitter end. Thank you very much!
所以不要硬撐到最糟糕的結局。非常感謝你們！
