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希平方
攻其不背
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希平方
攻其不背
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「米其林大廚Heston教你做出完美牛排(靜置篇)」- Heston Blumenthal: The Perfect Steak


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For me, great steak should be juicy, tender and pat for the flavor. What most people do is they're gonna buy steak from supermarket. Get it out of the package, straight from the fridge, into a pan, medium heat. Cook it and then eat it immediately. And that is all wrong!
對我來說,最棒的牛排應該要多汁、柔嫩並有恰到好處的風味。大部分人會做的,是從超市買回牛排。直接從冰箱取出,打開包裝,放進鍋裡,中火烹調。煎完馬上吃掉。然而這全都錯了!

First, choose the right cut of steak. Go for steak that's sticky enough so it doesn't dry out in the pan and it's got really nice fat marbling. Marbling will help it stay juicy, so choose a cut like sirloin or this one, rib-eye.
首先,要選對牛排的部位。選一塊有足夠黏性的牛排,如此一來它在鍋裡不會乾掉,而且有非常棒的脂肪紋路。脂肪紋路會幫助牛排保持濕嫩,所以要選擇像是沙朗,或是這塊,肋眼的部位。

The first thing you wanna do is take it out of the package. Just put it on the cake rack, sit over a tray and leave it in the fridge for two days. The air will circulate around the steak, and it will start to dry out, which will concentrate the flavor and start to tenderize the meat.
你要做的第一件事,是從包裝拿出牛排。放在蛋糕網架上,下面放個托盤,放進冰箱兩天。空氣會在牛排周圍循環,牛排會開始乾燥,這會濃縮風味,並開始軟化肉質。

Another mistake people make is to cook the steak straight from the fridge. By the time you've got the center to the right temperature, they're also gonna be overcooked. So leave it for a couple of hours to come to room temperature. Now, it's ready to cook.
另一個人們犯的錯誤是,將牛排拿出冰箱後就直接烹調。等中心達到正確烹調溫度的時候,牛排也煎過頭了。所以放著幾個小時讓它回到室溫。現在,可以準備烹調了。

For me, the perfect steak has a delicious dark crust on the outside and a soft juicy inside. And I found a really easy way to achieve just that. And most recipes say you put the steak in a medium pan. Leave it there for two to four minutes, turning once. But this is not a way to get the best results.
對我來說,完美的牛排表面要有美味的深色脆皮,和柔嫩多汁的內裡。而我發現一個非常簡單的方式可以達到這目標。大部分的食譜告訴你用中火平底鍋煎牛排,放在那兒二至四分鐘後翻面一次。但這種方式不能達到最好的效果。

What I do is start with a really hot pan, and I mean smoking hot. Now, I know a lot of you're gonna be looking at it, thinking, "Wooh, I'm too scared. I'm gonna burn my kitchen down." You're not going to burn your kitchen down. Why should I say that? What if something does burn the kitchen down?
我做的是從非常熱的鍋子開始,我的意思是熱到冒煙。現在,我知道很多人會看著它,心想:「喔,我好怕!我要燒掉我的廚房了。」你不會燒掉你的廚房。為什麼我這樣說?如果真的有個東西燒掉廚房怎麼辦?

Next, season your steak with table salt, but not pepper. This pan is so hot. The pepper would scorch. Save that to the end. Lay the steak in the pan away from you. Just look at that hot oil jumping out. The intense heat will give you that brown crust by causing an amazing thing called the Maillard Reaction, in which proteins and sugars react to create delicious meaty flavors.
接著,用食鹽調味你的牛排,而不是用胡椒。鍋子非常熱,胡椒會燒焦。把那留到最後再放。將牛排放進離你遠遠的鍋子,你看那熱油噴濺出來的樣子。強烈的高溫會帶給你褐色的脆皮,因為它會產生一種驚人的東西,叫「梅拉德反應」,反應中蛋白質和糖會起化學作用,產生美味的肉香。

So here's my secret for the perfect steak. I'm flipping this steak every fifteen to twenty seconds. As you can see on the thermal imaging camera, the side way from the heat cools down really quickly. My flipping trick means the outsides stay hot enough for a crust form, but the insides won't overcook.
所以這是我的完美牛排秘訣。我現在每十五到二十秒翻一次這牛排。就像是你可以從熱感影像攝影機上看到的,熱源的另外一面冷卻得很快。我的翻面小技巧意味著表層可以維持足夠熱度來產生脆皮外層,而內部則不會過熟。

Now, how to tell when your steak is done? Don't cut into your steak to test if it's ready. You're only left with juices run out. Get a digital thermometer. Push it into the middle. If you want rare, take it out at forty-five degrees; medium, fifty-five, and welldone, out at sixty-five degree centigrade.
現在,要怎麼分辨出牛排煮好了?不要切開你的牛排來看是否好了。你只讓肉汁都流光。拿個電子溫度計,插在中間。如果你想要三分熟,在四十五度時起鍋;五分熟,五十五度,全熟,在攝氏六十五度時起鍋。

Next, very important stage is to let the meat rest. Now I know the steak looks good enough to eat, but the residual heat's gonna raise the temperature by at least five degrees. So don't worry, it won't get cold. Rest it for at least five minutes. While my steak is having a snooze, I'm gonna demonstrate why resting meat is so important, with the help of my development chef, Otto, the human press.
接著,很重要的步驟,是靜置這塊牛排。我知道牛排現在看起來很棒可以吃了,但餘熱會讓溫度上升至少五度。所以不用擔心,它不會冷掉。靜置至少五分鐘。在牛排小睡片刻時,我要示範為什麼靜置牛排這麼重要,我的推廣廚師--人體榨汁機Otto會協助我。

Now, believe it or not, seventy-five percent of this is water. It's really important to keep as much of this moisture in the meat as possible after cooking. That's what's gonna make meat juicy. And that's what resting does. Otto's cooking a steak, flipping every fifteen seconds, just as I've shown you. The thing is that meat starts heating up, the protein start contracting, and they force the water out of the cells in the meat.
信不信由你,這百分之七十五是水份。在烹調之後盡力留住這些水份是非常重要的。這會讓肉變得多汁。而這也是靜置的作用。Otto正在煎一塊牛排,每十五秒就翻面,就像我剛剛示範給你看的。重點是,當肉開始加溫時,蛋白質也開始收縮,使得水份從肉內的細胞離開。

Now, this meat has not been rested. It's piping hot. So the fibers are still contracting and forcing out the juices. If you prod a cut into it now, you'll lose all that juiciness. What will happen when my hydraulic press, Otto, applies his weight onto this steak? Come then. Are you ready? Ok!
現在,這塊肉還沒經過靜置。它非常燙。纖維仍在收縮並擠出肉汁。如果你現在切開它,你會流失掉所有肉汁。如果現在我的液壓榨汁機Otto用他的體重壓在這塊牛排上會發生什麼事?來吧,準備好了嘛?OK!

And this steak has been well and truly scorched, obliterated. And look all the delicious juices that have come out. But what happens when the steak's been properly rested? This has been cooked exactly the same way. Except there's a rest for about five minutes. So the fibers have cooled down, relaxed, keeping the juices in the steak.
這塊牛排完全、徹底地乾枯、毀掉了。看看這些跑出來的美味肉汁。但如果牛排有經過適當的靜置後會發生什麼事?這經過幾乎一樣的方式烹調。除了有靜置了大約五分鐘。所以纖維已經冷卻、鬆弛,將肉汁留在牛排內。

Can't hear squelch. Now look at this. Ok, this is what I can get into this glass. Look at the difference between those two. This just shows you how important it is to rest your meat. That was all that came out of it. So it held on to its juices in spite of the mighty Otto.
聽不到嘎茲聲。現在看看它。Ok, 這是我可以裝進這杯子的肉汁。看看這兩者之間的差別。這正告訴你靜置牛排有多麼重要。那是跑出來的所有肉汁。所以即使有強大的Otto還是能留住肉汁。

Now, back to my rested steak. You can see there is a beautiful crust, which will be juicy and full of flavor. And all of that moisture held inside the meat: tender steak, just the most delicious, juicy, tender steak you can imagine.
現在,回到我這塊靜置過的牛排。你可以看到美妙的脆皮,多汁又充滿風味。而且所有水份都保持在肉裡:柔嫩的牛排,這就是你所能想像最美味、多汁、柔嫩的牛排。

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