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「法國尼斯:濱海步道、博物館和蔚藍海岸」- Nice, France: Promenade, Museums, and Coast


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The 19th century, aristocrats from London to Moscow flocked to France's sunny Cote D'Azur or Blue Coast. Much loved for its blue seas and blue skies, this was the place for Northern European to socialize, gamble and escape their dreary weather.
19世紀,從倫敦到莫斯科的貴族聚集到法國陽光燦爛的Cote D'Azur,或是蔚藍海岸。因為它蔚藍的大海以及湛藍的天空而廣受喜愛,這裡是北歐人社交、博弈並拋開北方陰鬱天氣的地方。

Whether you're rich or not, Nice with its eternally entertaining seafront promenade and fine museums is the enjoyable big-city highlight of the Riviera. In its traffic-free old city, Italian and French flavors mix to create a spicy Mediterranean dressing.
無論你是否富有,尼斯有著無窮趣味的濱海步道與優質的博物館,是里維埃拉這興味盎然大城市的亮點。在這個交通便捷的古老城市裡,義大利和法國風味融合而產出帶點辣味的地中海式風情。

Nice may be nice, but it's hot and jammed in July and August.
尼斯或許很美,但七、八月是既炎熱又擁擠。

We're here in early June beating the serious heat and crowds. The broad Promenade des Anglais (literally The Walkway of the English), was paved in marble for blue-blooded 19th century English tourists, who wanted a safe place to stroll and admire the view without getting their shoes dirty or smelling that fishy gravel.
我們搶先酷暑與人群一步,在六月初來到了這裡。寬闊的安格雷濱海步道(字面上是「英國人的步道」的意思),是為了19世紀英國貴族觀光客用大理石舖設的,這些貴族想要有個安全的地方散步以及欣賞美景,而不必弄髒鞋子或聞到魚腥味的碎石子。

Today it's a fun people's scene with a bike and roller blade path that leads all the way to the airport.
現今這是一片歡樂人群的景象,有條一路通往機場的腳踏車和直排輪跑道。

The beach ,while pebbly, is popular.
這海灘,即便礫石滿布,仍然非常熱門。

Whether you are looking for an adrenalin rush or just working on your suntan, this beach has it all. Tan lines could be hard to find, as Europeans are relaxed about topless sun-bathing. While major stretches at the beach are public, much of it is private, where you pay to rent a spot, complete with mattress, lounge chair and umbrella.
不管你在尋找刺激或是純粹在做日光浴,這海灘通通都有。在歐洲人身上很難找到曬痕,因為他們對上空日光浴非常地隨興。儘管海邊的主要海岸線是公共的,其中很多是私人經營,在那裡你付錢租一塊地點,包含毯子、海灘椅和遮陽傘。

Nice was born on its easy-to-fortify hill. From there, and inland from the beach, spreads its colorful old town.
尼斯誕生於便於防禦的丘陵上。從那裡,以及海邊延伸進去的內陸,散布著多姿多采的舊市區。

The old town squares feel more Italian than French, because until 1860, Nice was ruled by an Italian king. Until the mid-1800s, the people here spoke an Italian dialect. Street signs are still in two languages, and pasta is still a favorite.
這舊城區廣場感覺上是義式風格而不是法式,因為一直到1860年代,尼斯是由一位義大利國王統治。直到19 世紀中期,當地人還是說義大利方言。街道招牌依舊有兩種語言,而義大利麵仍然是他們的最愛。

Nice's Italian rulers lived in this palace.
尼斯的義大利統治者過去住在這座宮殿裡。

As the modern nation of Italy was being created, this region was given a choice: Join the chaotic new country of Italy, or join wealthy France, which was enjoying good times under the rule of Napoleon the third. The vast majority of the people voted to go French, and voila.
當現代義大利國創建時,這地方有了個選擇:加入義大利這混亂的新興意大利國,或是加入富有的法國,當下享受拿破崙三世統治之下的美好時光。大多數的人民投票加入法國的行列,嗨(法文)。

The old town offers a cultural scavenger hunt of opportunities, from its medieval market square with fresh seasonal produce, to a pasta shop, showing Nice's Italian roots, to the nearby Patisserie Auer: its belle epoque storefront brags that it's been run from father to son since 1820.
舊城區提供文化拾荒者尋寶的機會,從它那有著當季新鮮農產品的中世紀世廣場,到一間義大利麵店鋪,展示著尼斯的義大利根源,到附近的奧爾蛋糕店:它那一戰前美好年代風格的店面,誇耀著從1820年以來父子傳承的家業。

Queen Victoria satisfied her sweet tooth right here.
維多利亞女王就在這裡滿足她愛甜食的味蕾。

Socca, a thin chickpea crepe, seasoned with pepper and olive oil is a peasant staple, predating tourism. That's still dear to local hearts. At this busy stand, the Socca arrives by motor bike, hot out of the oven, and it's sold and gobbled up as quickly as they can slice it.
Socca,一種用胡椒和橄欖油調味的鷹嘴豆薄餅,為農家的主食,可追朔至旅遊業興起之前。這食物對當地人來說仍是非常重要的。在這生意忙碌的攤子,Socca是用摩托車送達,剛出爐熱騰騰的,而薄餅賣出、被狼吞虎嚥吞下肚的速度和他們能夠切薄餅的速度一樣快。

Flower seems to grow effortlessly and everywhere in this ideal climate. This has long been Riviera's biggest flower market. Fresh flowers are a fine value in this otherwise pricey city, and with such an abundance of flowers, it's no wonder perfume is a local industry.
在這宜人的氣候下,花似乎毫不費力且隨處可見地生長。這裡長久以來都是里維埃拉最大的花市。在這其他方面都很昂貴的城市裡鮮花物超所值,而有著如此充裕的花朵,難怪香水是一項本土產業。

The Molinard family has been making perfume from Cote d'Azur flowers for a century. Perfume is distilled like Cognac, and then aged like wine. It takes for more than four hundred pounds of lavender to produce just one quart of pure essence. For the French, finding just the right perfume is a personal quest.
Molinard 家族使用蔚藍海岸的花朵製做香水已有一世紀了。香水像干邑白蘭地一樣蒸餾,接著像紅酒般陳放熟成。要用四百磅(約181公斤)以上的薰衣草才能製造出僅僅一夸脫(約946毫升)的純香精。對法國人而言,尋找恰好適合的香水是一項個人的探索。

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