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「西班牙小鎮潘普羅納:奔牛節」- Pamplona, Spain: Running of the Bulls


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We're here in early July for the Festival of San Fermin. And that means the Running of the Bulls, one of Europe's most exuberant festivals. For nine days each July, throngs of visitors (most dressed in the traditional white with red sashes and kerchiefs) come to run with the bulls, and a whole lot more.
我們在七月初來到這裡參加聖佛明節。而那意思就是奔牛節,歐洲最熱血沸騰的節慶之一。每個七月的其中九天,成群的觀光客(多數穿著傳統白色衣服與紅色腰帶和方領巾)來和公牛們賽跑,還有更多好玩有趣的事。

The festival which packs this city has deep roots. For centuries, the people of this region have honored San Fermin, their patron saint, with processions and parties. He was decapitated in the second century for his faith. And the red bandanas you see everywhere are a distant reminder of his martyrdom. And you know, I don't think anybody on this square knows or even cares.
這個塞爆城市的節慶有悠久的根源。幾世紀以來,這個地區的人們以遊行與派對活動來榮耀聖佛明,他們的守護神。他在第二世紀時因為他的信仰而被斬首。你隨處可見的紅色領巾就是他殉教的隱約暗示。而且你知道的,我不認為這個廣場上的任何人知道、或甚至在乎。

But at the church of San Fermin, it's a capacity crowd, and there's no question what to wear for this Mass. To this day, locals look to their hometown saint for protection.
但是在聖佛明教堂,是爆滿的人群,而對於彌撒要穿著什麼毫無疑問。直至今日,當地居民依然指望他們家鄉聖人的庇護。

Back out on the street, it's a party for young and old. There's plenty of fun for kids, and towering giants add a plateful mystic to the festivities. The literary giant, Ernest Hemingway, is celebrated by Pamplona as if he were a native son.
回到街頭,這是個老少咸宜的派對。小孩們有無比歡樂,而那些巍巍高大的巨人為這個節慶活動增添了滿滿的神祕感。大文豪歐內斯特.海明威則是被潘普羅納市(西班牙東北部城市)頌揚,好似他是個原鄉的孩子一般。

Hemingway first came here for the 1923 Running of the Bulls. Inspired by the spectacle, he later wrote his bullfighting classic The Sun Also Rises. He said he enjoyed seeing two wild animals running together: one on two legs, and the other on four.
海明威首次來這裡是為了1923年的奔牛節。受到壯觀場景啟發,他之後寫了他鬥牛的經典著作《旭日又升》。他說他喜歡看兩隻發狂的動物一起奔馳:一隻是用兩條腿,而另一隻是用四條腿。

Hemingway put Pamplona on the world map. When he first visited, it was a dusty town of thirty thousand with an obscure bullfighting festival. Now, a million people a year come here for one of the world's great parties. After dark, the town erupts into a rollicking party scene.
海明威讓潘普羅納市登上了世界地圖。當他第一次來訪時,這還只是個三萬人的枯燥無趣的小鎮,有著默默無名的鬥牛慶典。現在,每年有一百萬人為了這世界盛大的派對活動之一來到這裡。入夜後,這個鎮突然成了一片歡騰的派對景象。

While the craziness rages day and night, the city's well-organized. And even with all the alcohol, it feels in control, and things go smoothly. Amazingly, in just a few hours, the same street will host a very different spectacle.
儘管瘋狂氛圍肆虐不分晝夜,這城市依舊井然有序。而即使在所有酒精充斥之下,它感覺仍在掌控之中,而事情也都順利地進行。令人驚訝的是,在僅僅幾小時後,同樣的街道會呈獻出一種截然不同的景象。

The Running of the Bulls takes place early each morning. Spectators claim a vantage point along the barrier at the crack of dawn. Early in the morning? Nope, for many of these revelers, it's still late at night. The anticipations itself is thrilling. Security crews sweep those not running out of the way. Shop windows and doors are boarded up. Fencing is set up to keep bulls on course and protect the crowd.
奔牛節的活動在每天一大早舉行。旁觀者們在破曉時就沿著柵欄佔好絕佳的位置。一大早嗎?不,對於許多這些飲酒作樂的狂歡者來說,現在還是深夜。期待本身就令人興奮。安檢人員趕走那些不參與奔跑的人。店面櫥窗和大門都用板子釘上。圍籬架起,好讓公牛們維持在跑道上,並保護觀眾。

The runners are called the "mozos." While many are just finishing up a night of drinking, others train for the event. They take the ritual seriously, and run every year.
那些跑者稱作「mozo」。儘管很多人是才剛結束一整晚的狂飲,其他人則為此活動接受訓練。他們認真看待這個儀式,而且每年都跑。

At eight o'clock, a rocket is fired, and the mozos take off. Moments later, a second rocket means the bulls have been released. They stampede half a mile through the town from their pens to the bullfighting arena. At full gallop, it goes by fast. Bulls thunder through the entire route in just two and a half minutes. The mozos try to run in front of the bulls for as long as possible (usually just a few seconds) before diving out of the way.
八點鐘時,信號彈發射,mozo們起跑。稍後,第二發信號彈代表公牛們已被放了出來。牠們從畜欄狂奔半英哩(約八百公尺)穿過城鎮到鬥牛競技場。在全速奔馳下,它呼嘯而過。公牛們在僅僅兩分半鐘之內如雷霆般轟然地跑完全程。mozo們努力跑在公牛們前方,越久越好(通常只有幾秒)在突然消失之前。

They say, on a good run, you feel the breathe of the bull on the back of your legs. Cruel as this all seems for the bulls, who scrambled for footing on the cobblestones as they rush toward their doom in the bullring, the human participants don't come out unscathed. Each year, dozens of people are gored or trampled. Over the last century, fifteen mozos have been killed at the event.
他們說,在一場好的奔牛賽跑中,你感覺的到公牛的呼吸就在你腿肚後。像這樣的殘酷一切似乎都是對公牛而來,當牠們在衝向鬥牛場內的末日時,在鵝卵石上爭奪立足點,人類參與者也不會全身而退。每一年,數十人們被牛角刺傷或被踐踏。在上個世紀,有十五位mozo在這盛會裡喪生。

After it's done, people gather for breakfast and review the highlights on TV. All day long, local channels replay that morning's spectacle.
在這完成之後,人們聚集在一起吃早餐,並從電視上回顧精彩畫面。一整天,當地頻道都在重播那天早上的景象。

The finale of the event each day is in the evening when crowds fill the bullring. Pamplona's arena (the third biggest in the world after Madrid and Mexico City) is sold out each day of the festival. One by one, the bulls that ran that morning explode out of the gate to meet their matadors: first, the picadors, then, the banderilleros, and finally, the matador, in his sparkling suit of light. While cruel brutality to many, others still consider bullfighting an art form. It's hard for me to appreciate, but to the Spaniard who pack this arena, there's a nobility to the beast, and an elegance to the fight.
每天活動的最後節目是在晚上人群們湧入鬥牛場時。潘普羅納的競技場(世界第三大,僅次於馬德里和墨西哥城)節慶的每一天門票都銷售一空。一個接著一個,那些早上奔馳的公牛從柵欄後暴衝而出,來面對牠們的鬥牛士:首先是騎馬鬥牛士,接著,鬥牛士助手,以及最後,鬥牛士,穿著他那閃亮的鬥牛裝。儘管這對許多人來說是殘忍的暴行,其他人依然認為鬥牛是一種藝術形式。對我來說很難去欣賞,但對那些塞滿這競技場的西班牙人而言,野獸有著崇高地位,而打鬥則有著優雅美感。

Good matadors are like rock stars. They perform with drama, daring and grace. With each thrilling pass, the crowds cheer until the bull meets his predictable end. If the fight is deemed a good one, the people wave kerchiefs and call for a trophy to be awarded. For this fight, the matador is given an ear from his victim, and struts triumphantly around the arena.
優秀的鬥牛士就像搖滾明星一樣。他們以戲劇效果、膽識以及優雅演出。對於每一次驚險刺激過招,觀眾們會歡呼直到公牛遭遇牠那可預見的結局。如果那場搏鬥被視為一次精彩演出,人們會揮舞他們的領巾,並且呼喊要求頒發獎盃。由於這場搏鬥,鬥牛士會被授予一隻其手下犧牲品的耳朵,並耀武揚威地昂首闊步繞行競技場。

The festival's energy courses through the city. Overlooking the main square, the venerable Cafe Iruna pulses with music and dance. Enjoying the scene with this delightful 1888 interior, I'm impressed by the joyful enthusiasm the people of this town have for their festival of San Fermin.
節慶的活力充滿整座城市。俯視著中央廣場,莊嚴的Cafe Iruna(知名咖啡廳)隨著音樂和舞蹈顫動。享受著這有著可愛的1888年室內設計的場景,我因為這裡鎮民們對於聖佛明節慶的歡樂熱情而深受感動。

  • 「爆滿的人群、座無虛席」- A Capacity Crowd

    But at the church of San Fermin, it's a capacity crowd, and there's no question what to wear for this Mass.
    但是在聖佛明教堂,是爆滿的人群,而對於彌撒要穿著什麼毫無疑問。

  • 「指望、期待」- Look To

    To this day, locals look to their hometown saint for protection.
    直至今日,當地居民依然指望他們家鄉聖人的庇護。

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