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「Gordon Ramsay之鯊魚保育」- Gordon Ramsay eats Shark Fin Soup for the first time!


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I've come to one of the city's most exclusive restaurants, Imperial, to taste the soup for the very first time. Wow, nice. King's Food Shark Fin. Shark Fin Chef Chen Chi-Kwan doesn't speak English, but the Manager David is here to help me out. So in there, it's uh...chicken stock? Yes, the old hen. The Chinese ham. So this amazing broth has been cooking now for sort of eight to ten hours. And it's flavored with ham. And he's just darkening it with some soy sauce. So it's got sort of salty, slightly smoked flavor to it.
我來到了這城市最高級的餐廳之一,帝王級的,來初次嘗試這湯。哇,很棒。御膳魚翅。御膳魚翅的主廚陳啟光不會說英文,但是經理David在這幫我。所以在那裡,它是...雞湯?是的,老母雞。中式火腿。所以這個神奇的煲湯到現在已經熬製了大約八到十小時了。而且他是用火腿調味的。還有他用一些醬油來給它加深顏色。所以它有某種鹹的,有點煙燻過的風味。

The shark fin has been steamed, soaked and washed for days, and then led to a fuse in a basic chicken stock, and to the texture's dilateness(dilation). This one is a...? The shark fin...ugh...this way... Ninety pounds for that? Yes! Jesus! This one? Seventy quid. So ninety quid, seventy pound. So the quality of fin is judged by size and thickness.
魚翅被蒸過、浸泡過且洗過好幾天了,然後放到雞高湯裡融在一起,然後讓組織膨脹。這個是一個...?魚翅的...這邊...那要九十英鎊?是!老天啊!這個呢?七十英鎊。所以九十英鎊,七十英鎊。所以魚翅的品質由大小和厚度來判斷。

The broth is added to a heated plate pot, and once boiling, the fin goes in. Alright, and that's it? Finished? As you expect, I've gone for the most expensive bowl. So, throw in some garnish, a little wine vinegar, some bamboo shoots, and some coriander. The idea is to peel back the fin. What was the taste of a real proper shark fin soup? I mean, it's really...really bizarre. I mean, really bizarre, because it actually tastes of nothing. Almost like sort of plain glass noodles.
煲湯被倒進已加熱的砂鍋,一旦煮滾,魚翅放進去。好吧,然後就這樣?完成了?像你所想的一樣,我選了最貴的那碗。所以,加上一些裝飾品,一點紅酒醋,一些竹筍,然後一些香菜。這概念就是要往後撕起魚翅。真正正統的魚翅湯的味道是怎樣?我的意思是,他真的是...真的很怪異。我意思是,真的很怪,因為它完全沒有味道。幾乎像是某種無味的冬粉。

The broth is delicious, pretty good. But it could have anything in there. It could have chicken, sweet corn. It could have duck in there. This is pork belly. So, the soup is like the...the one item spoiling that is the shark fin. I want to ask the customers: why they prepare to spend so much money on something that to me taste of nothing. No, it's not...Mr. Ramsay. No, it's impossible. Relax...relax! No, it is VIP. I wanted to go and ask that table of VIP guest, who spend ninety pounds each on a bowl of soup, and they're denying me access into the dining room. Have you...uh, a piece of paper please. A pen and a piece of paper. The paper? Yes!
湯頭很美味,非常棒。但是它裡面可以有任何東西。它可以有雞肉、甜玉米。它可以有鴨肉。這是豬五花。所以,這湯就像是...唯一把那搞砸的東西就是魚翅。我想要問問顧客:為啥他們準備花這麼多錢在對我來說沒味道的東西上。不,不是...Ramsay先生。不,不可能。放輕鬆...放輕鬆!不,它是VIP包廂。我想過去問問VIP客人那桌,他們一人花九十英鎊在一碗湯上面,然而他們不讓我進那包廂。你有...一張紙嗎,謝謝?一枝筆和一張紙。紙嗎?是的!

Why do you enjoy eating shark fin soup? Umm... It's delicious. It's delicious, which is enough. Does it ever concern you the amount of sharks that we use and abuse in terms of the depleted stocks? Never. We never understand all that. Yeah. We never know. And it's now the most expensive soup in the world because of the price. Will you stop eating it or not? No, we still eat that, not very often, but sometimes, yeah. Special occasion. Yeah, special occasion. Mother's birthday. Happy birthday!
為什麼你喜愛吃魚翅湯?嗯...它很美味。它很美味,這就夠了。就被消耗殆盡的資源來說,我們使用和濫用的鯊魚數量有沒有曾經讓你關心過?從來沒有。我們從來不瞭解那些。是啊。我們從不知道。而且由於價錢的關係,它是現在世界最貴的湯。你會停止吃它還是不會?不,我們還會吃那個,不是很常吃,但是有時候會吃,嗯。特殊情況。是的,特殊情況。母親的生日。生日快樂!

For my first point of view, it was something that really to taste absolutely amazing...and yeah, I pulled my hand up saying "Christ", you know. But it doesn't deliver. And the sad news is that they rely on their history, most of the tradition from their parents, their grandparents to say, go eat this, because it's the symbol of status.
關於我的第一觀點,它是某種嘗起來絕對很棒的東西...而且對啊,我舉起手來說「老天啊」,你知道。但是搞錯了。而可悲的消息是,他們相信他們的歷史,大部份來自於他們父母,祖父母的傳統說,去吃這個,因為它是地位的象徵。

My god! Look at this. Now I'm on top of the roof. And these are all laid out to dry. There must be thousands of them from here. It's a shark fin graveyard. With fins for sale on the shelf for up to two hundred pounds each, the amount of money on the roof alone is mind-boggling. It's a gold mine. This place is a fucking joke. Ok, she just called someone on the telephone. Let's get the fuck out of here. We're going. We're going. Yeah, yeah, we're going. Unbelievable! Fuck me! Let's get out of here before we get shot.
我的天啊!看看這個。現在我在屋頂上。而這些都被攤在外面曬乾。這裡一定有數以千計的魚翅。它是個魚翅墳墓。架子上有著在賣一片高達兩百英鎊的魚翅,單單就這屋頂上的金額就是讓人極為驚訝的。它是個金礦。這地方是個他媽的笑話。好,她剛剛打了電話。我們快他媽的離開這裡。我們要走了。我們要走了。是,是,我們要走了。難以置信!我他媽的!讓我們在被開槍打死之前離開這裡。

Jesus Christ. I'm watching her, as a scalloped hammerhead, one of the most endangered shark species, has its fin sliced off, while still alive. It's a slow, long and drawn-out process. See! The animal is still alive and wiggling, the pure cruelty of this. Just imaging taking a lion in the savannas of Africa, cutting its arms off and just throwing them out in the savanna to bleed and to die. That would be extremely cruel. The meat of the hammerhead shark in Costa Rica, once they are this size, has no value absolutely. If they bring it back to the port, no one will buy it. So that's the...that's the incentive to...to fin. It's without doubt the worst act of animal cruelty I've ever seen.
我的老天啊。我正看著她,一條圓齒雙髻鯊,一種最瀕臨絕種的鯊魚種類,活生生的魚鰭被切了下來。它是個緩慢的,長時間且持續很久的過程。看!那動物還是活的,還在扭動,這純粹是殘忍的。只要想像抓住一頭非洲草原的獅子,砍下牠的四肢並就把牠們扔在草原流血等死。那會是極端的殘忍。一旦長到這樣的體型,雙髻鯊的肉在哥斯大黎加絕對沒有價值。如果他們把它帶回港口,沒有人會買它。所以那是...割取魚鰭...那就是動機。這毫無疑問的是我所看過對動物最殘忍的行為。

Hi, it's Gordon Ramsay. How are you? Good, good, good, good! I'm... Listen, thank you for your email. But I was just wondering if you could just fix a time, to give me five minutes of your time. I know you probably have no interest in meeting with me, but...umm...I think it's really important that we do meet. But, Mr. Cruise, I'm...I'm...I...I'm also a businessman. I...I run twenty-three restaurants. So, my business is uh...just like yours, very important to me. I'll come to you. Mr...Mr. Cruise, one more thing.
嗨,這是Gordon Ramsay。你好嗎?好,好,好,好!我在...聽著,謝謝你的電子郵件。但是我在想你可不可以喬個時間,給我五分鐘。我知道你也許沒有興趣跟我見面,但是...嗯...我認為我們見面是很重要的。但是,Cruise先生,我...我...我...我也是個生意人。我...我經營二十三間餐廳。所以,我的生意是...就像是你的一樣,對我來說非常重要。我來找你。Cruise,還有一件事。

But then some good news: Alaco contacts Lorandos. Daniel has managed to get me to a private dock. I'll be telling them I'm a chef. Ya. Yeah, I will. And even better, I try to go out and join a boat: shark fishing. Jesus! Look at that. It's like going to prison. Ya, haha... Hola, morning! But first, I get to watch a boat unloading its month catch. Hola. Hola. How are you? Two dollars a kilo for the meat versus twenty-eight dollars a kilo for the fins, there's no doubt what these fishermen are interested in: To have the fins, just the fins. Fin after fin after fin after fin. That's the price, fin there, that one there. That's where the money is. The tail, the most tender parts, and the part that's most sold after to China. I know this is legal, but to find a shit quantity of shark being landed, distressing. This is all for that one dish, the shark fin soup. It's honestly right now starting to make me feel fucking sick. It's relentless.
但是接著有些好消息:Alaco聯絡上Lorandos。Daniel已經想辦法把我弄到一個私人碼頭去。我會告訴他們我是個廚師。是。好,我會。更好的是,我試著出去加入一艘船:捕鯊魚。天啊!看看那個。它像是要去監獄一樣。是啊,哈哈...哈囉,早安!但首先,我得以看到一艘船卸下它一個月以來的漁獲。哈囉。哈囉。你好嗎?魚肉一公斤兩美金和魚鰭一公斤二十八美金相比,毫無疑問的這些漁夫們對甚麼有興趣:要有魚鰭,只要魚鰭。魚鰭然後魚鰭然後魚鰭然後魚鰭。那就是錢啊,那是魚鰭,那邊那個,銀子就在那邊。那就是銀子所在的地方。尾巴,最嫩的部位,那部位大多數之後賣到中國。我知道這是合法的,但是看到一大堆的鯊魚被吊起上岸,令人痛苦。這都是為了那道菜,魚翅湯。它現在真的開始讓我感到他媽的噁心。它是殘酷無情的。

And now, I'm about to witness firsthand, how the sharks are being caught. I can't believe you are on this boat. You know that? My journey is taking me ten thousand miles from Taiwan, to the other side of the world, on this tiny boat. Fishing to meet Asia's huge demand for fins. I'm joining a crew of four, ten days into their month out at sea. This is a small boat, with a twelve-mile longline, with eight hundred hooks on there. Shark, shark. First shark, and it's a baby silky, one of the most overfished species in the world. Like most sharks, they give birth to very few pups, once every two years. Less than a year old, this shark has been killed before given a chance to reproduce. It's not the quick humane death I'm used to seeing with animals back home. It's hard to watch. Fucking hell. I've never been exposed to the reality of longline fishing. Shit. It's indiscriminate. It's a turtle, fucking hell. It's telling you how to be a fucking nightmare.
然後現在,我將要去第一手見證,鯊魚是如何被捕捉。我不敢相信你在這艘船上,你知道嗎?我的旅程把我帶到離台灣一萬英里之外,到世界的另一端,在這艘小船上。捕魚來應付亞洲對魚鰭大量的需求。我正加入了一個四人船員小組,在他們出海一個月的第十天。這是艘小船,有著十二英里的長釣線,在那上面有八百個魚鉤。鯊魚、鯊魚。第一條鯊魚,他是條小絲鯊,世界上最為濫捕的品種之一。像大多數的鯊魚一樣,牠們很少生育幼鯊,每兩年一次。不到一歲,這條鯊魚在他有機會繁衍後代之前被殺掉了。它不是我一貫在家鄉看到的動物快速的人道死亡。很難繼續看下去。他媽的真慘。我從沒見識過長線釣魚的真相。狗屎。它是不加區別的。它是隻海龜,他媽的真該死。它是在告訴你如何當個他媽的夢靨。

And discovery: What bait is that? Yokolu? A shark? Uh? Yeah. So you use shark as bait as well. What kind of shark was that as bait? It is thresher. Thresher? Thresher shark. Fuck me. Yes, it was. It's tragic that the body of a thresher shark is of such little value. They're using it as bait. Finish? The end of the line? Thank God for that. Just as the fishermen loading the hole with today's catch, I spot something coming out for that I haven't expected to see. Show me this here. When...when is that catch from? This is from yesterday? Shark fin? Jesus, that's pretty big. When's that one from? Yesterday? Yeah. Yeah? Wow, what kind of shark is that from? Thresher. Thresher. Jesus. What else you got in here? And in here? Nothing. And in here? Wow...wow... And where did this...this must be a big shark, this one. Jesus. I didn't see any signs of the body down below. If they bring this fin into the port, that will be breaking the Costa Rican law, which states the shark bodies must be landing with the fins attached. Those shark fins down there... You have dissected fins. Do you have any more fins on board? No, just that one. There's just one, no more. But it's...it's illegal to land the shark fin separated from the body. There's no problem, because it's just one. It's just one. If there were lots we'd be arrested.
然後發現:那是甚麼魚餌?Yokolu(外來語:一種魚餌)?一條鯊魚?啊?是啊。所以你也用鯊魚當魚餌。那用來當作魚餌的鯊魚是哪種鯊魚?它是長尾鯊。長尾鯊?長尾鯊。他媽的。是,它是。真不幸長尾鯊的身體這麼不值錢。他們用它當魚餌。結束了?這是釣魚線的尾端了?感謝老天。就在漁夫用今天的漁獲裝填這洞的時候,我看到某個東西出現,而這是我沒預計會看到的。給我看看這裡這個。甚麼時候...那是甚麼時候的漁獲?這是昨天的?魚鰭?老天啊,那個真大。那個甚麼時候的?昨天?是。是嗎?哇,那是從哪種鯊魚來的?長尾鯊。長尾鯊。老天啊。你這裡面還有甚麼?還有這裡面?沒了。那這裡呢?哇...哇...還有這從哪裡...這一定是條大鯊魚,這條。老天。我在下面沒有看到任何鯊魚身體的蹤跡。如果他們把這魚鰭帶到港口,那會是觸犯哥斯大黎加法律,它說鯊魚身體必須在登上陸地時和魚鰭連接在一起。那些下面的魚鰭...你已經切開了魚鰭。你船上有更多的魚鰭嗎?不,只有那一個。只有一個,沒有更多了。但是它是...把魚鰭從身體分開帶上陸地是違法的。沒問題,因為只有一個。只有一個。如果有很多個我們會被逮捕。

I suspect that those thresher fins belong to the body they were using as bait, because from what I've seen, there was no sign of a two meter shark down below. Such a small boat that don't really fit up, the boat with body of the shark at that size... So uh... Yeah, I mean... Fucking hell. I mean life is on the water, isn't that? So tough, very hard. These guys are under huge pressure to make money. And uh...some excuse, but... Yeah.
我懷疑那些長尾鯊魚鰭屬於他們用來當魚餌的鯊魚身體,因為從我所見,下面沒有一條兩公尺長鯊魚的蹤跡。如此的一艘小船真的裝不下,這艘船跟那樣體型的鯊魚身體...所以啊...是啊,我是說...他媽的慘啊。我意思是靠海吃飯,不是嗎?如此艱難、非常困難。這些傢伙賺錢壓力很大。還有阿...一些藉口,但是...是的。

The plan is to show five of London's leading Chinese restaurants some footage of my journey, and to persuade them to take shark fin soup off their menus. I ask you here today for open debates, and I'm not here to accuse anyone of any wrong doing or misgiving. But after investigating the sort of shark finning industry in my program,
I'm convinced by decreasing the demand for shark fin soup, it's possible to lessen the demand for fins. To give them an idea of the scale of the problem, I'm showing them what I found in Kaohsiung port in Taiwan. There must be thousands of them here. This is incredible. Is every roof like this?
本計畫是要展示一些我旅程的片段給五家倫敦頂尖的中國餐廳看看,並說服他們把魚翅湯從菜單中拿掉。我今天請你們來這裡是為求公開的討論,而且我不是在這指控任何人做錯任何事情或是有疑慮。但是在我的計劃裡調查過那種魚翅產業之後,我確信藉由減少魚翅湯的需求,是有可能減少魚鰭的需求。要讓他們了解到這問題的規模,我展示給他們看我在台灣高雄港所發現的。這裡一定有數以千計的魚鰭。這真難以置信。每個屋頂都像這樣嗎?

And Chinese cooking is always, and has been renowned for using everything. Five percent you know, off the fin, ninety-five percent is the by-product, you are wasting more than you're using. I guess, yeah. It's something that's been through tradition that shark's fin, umm, you know, is priced. Now, I know shark recipes that I know using the meat. So, when I look at that. I feel that: Yes, we should use the rest of the shark as well as the fin. Otherwise, not at all. I need to open their eyes to the barbaric and wasteful reality of finning. Of course it's shocking. Everyone in this room is here for a reason, because you can make a difference. That difference would be to start, alongside me with a campaign, to ban shark fin soup on the menu here in China town. The meeting went really well. It was a small but very powerful group of restaurants, and... if they are now agreeing with me to stop serving shark fin soup, that is a huge, huge advantage, because now others may follow.
而中國料理總是,已經以甚麼都用而著名。你知道百分之五,是魚鰭,百分之九十五是副產品,你浪費的比用的更多。我猜,是的。它是某種東西已經經歷傳統的事物,魚翅,你知道,是昂貴的。現在,我知道用魚肉的鯊魚料理。所以當我看到那點。我覺得:是的,我們應該用鯊魚其他的部位同時也用魚鰭。不然,一點也不要用。我需要讓他們開開眼界看看取魚翅的野蠻且浪費的事實。當然它很令人震驚。這房間裡的每個人在這都有原因,因為你可以做出改變。那改變會是跟我一起,開始一個活動,在這中國城裡,禁止把魚翅湯放上菜單。會議進行的非常順利。它是個小的但是非常有力的一群餐廳,而且...如果他們現在因為同意我的觀點而停止賣魚翅湯,那是個很大,很大的好處,因為現在其他人會追隨。

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